Explore the future of advanced customization
Anne Valerie Hash
Anne Valerie Hash

The debate about Haute Couture is life and death. It's like an endless cycle. It hasn't got a conclusion for many years. Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week continues every year. In the face of the media's doubts and the limitations of the system, is it a matter of obeying the ancient laws and regulations, or is it a sneak peek and a surprise? All this, only the market can give the courage to answer.

Survival Two types of advanced gaming customizations literally refer to garments that are tailored specifically to customers, and are generally known for high-quality, expensive fabrics, perfect details, and time-consuming production processes. Today's well-known Haute Couture Week is more demanding. All participants who want to participate must meet three hard requirements: first, they need to provide customized designs for private customers and provide one or more fitting services; second, they need to set up a studio in Paris and hire at least 15 full-time employees; Third, each quarter needs to show Paris media a design series containing at least 35 sets of daily and evening wear. This was a revised version in 1992. The initial requirements in 1945 were more stringent. To date, only 23 designer brands have been allowed to participate, including 11 full members, 4 foreign members and 8 invited exhibitors.

The veteran designer Lao Qi Fu Zhi in the thousands of miles in the fall of 2011 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is still in the expectations and doubts coming in on schedule, and the new and old factions of the two contests launched a smoke-free war. The veteran designers are actively or passively busy with reforms to consolidate their position, hoping that this season's strong attack will give the market a shotgun and stir the heart of the dust. The new and emerging designer Fanghua has begun to grow slim. The schedule of this season's high fashion show is full compared to previous years. A group of emerging designers have appeared. It was the addition of fresh blood that made this somewhat boring area lively and angry. You know, Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen were newcomers a decade ago.

Among the 23 designer brands, there are only two ways, either attributable to the international big brands, maintaining their operations with income from other businesses; otherwise they remain mysterious and low-key, open only to a very few people, not too much exposure. As long as the former is financially permissible, advanced customization will surely be the same as Tian Qi and never fall because the advanced customization is the highest end of the brand extension, that is, the flagship product, so long as it makes this piece beautiful and beautiful. The image of the brand is naturally superior, and selling something is also more emboldened. But to do a high-level custom show, the map is not really sold these almost art designs, just to strengthen the brand association, shape the brand image, and ultimately promote the brand extension product sales.

As for the latter, it is actually the main body of the entire Haute Couture Week. With the exception of Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Giorgio Armani, and Valentino, almost all of them are less well-known low-key brands. For them, providing customers with splendid design and meticulous customization services can be a key means of living. Like Anne Valerie Hash and Stephane Rolland, both natives of France, completed advanced studies in their studies and established a certain reputation in the industry. Designers who are independent portals have good prospects as long as they meet the critical needs of customers. Like *** designer Azzedine Alaia returned to the show after eight years, it caused a lot of attention. Mr. Alaia started manufacturing ** several weeks before the start of the show, spurned the design invitation from Dior, and drove Karl Lagerfeld, a veteran who was also very proficient in the fashion circle rules, and Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue. Fallen a lot, vowing to create the image of a great independent designer, and break with the commercial operation. Sure enough, after the advent of the haute couture work, the voice of praise clashed over the monument erected by Alaia. But if you look closely, apart from the incredible astonishment of the signature knit skirts in the last few days, the series of fronts filled with shiny crocodile skin and Mongolian fur is shameful. Overall, however, the return of Azzedine Alaia can also be seen as a return to niche business model.

There are merits to the two advanced modes of survival. The most taboo is to oscillate between the two modes. Christian Lacroix was planted on this small scale of business operations and fluctuating brand positioning. Of course, in addition to business value, advanced customization is most praiseworthy or its artistic value. There are often artists who criticize fashion as not high art because fashion can be copied in large numbers and difficult to preserve. However, advanced customization is as close as possible to high art, such as controlling production at a high price and ensuring its scarcity. Chanel's five art workshops are generally dressed as works of art and are dazzling.

Challenges to the Haute Couture Campaign General clothing only serves as a cover and difference, both to demonstrate personality and values. Advanced customization, on the other hand, brings human capabilities to its own imagination and performance. This season's Givenchy and Valentino dealt with extremely complicated crafts with extremely soft touch. It can be seen that Haute Couture also has a common characteristic, pursues extreme alienation, and in short, makes you look like a person. The Dutch female designer Iris Van Herpen who was invited to the Haute Couture Fashion Week went further. Her design is basically out of the category of clothes, and it is more like a human-based art installation. The white outfit shown by Liu Wen not only demonstrated superb creativity and craftsmanship, but also challenged the definition of advanced customization. Is advanced customization necessary to have a long-lasting face? Alexis Mabille has always been popular, the new series of animals as the theme: "The ants" skirt is a black skirt showing thighs on both sides, "Wolf" dress decorated with a row of Swarovski spikes in each arm, The "horse" skirt has a silk fringe on one side of the chest. These skirts have the French version of "Vogue" style of cold sexy, the problem is most familiar. Another Frenchman, Bouchra Jarrar, who has been assistant to Nicolas Ghesquiere for 10 years, knows how to deal with menswear fabrics. She also knows how to put a coat on her body. Whether her unusually concise work is tailor-made or ready-to-wear, Is this important?

If you really want to be true, among the remaining 23 designers, many brands have lost their qualifications for being called advanced customization. Givenchy began a few years ago, and there are fewer than 35 cases in each season. There are only 10 lookups this year. In addition, Dior is also very controversial this season, because the entire series is completed by Dior's workshop, not by the designer. The addition of Iris Van Herpen directly challenges people’s perception of advanced customization. The materials used may not be fabrics at all, and their production time is shortened by means of industrialization. The number of customers who purchase for use as a collection may be much larger than that used.

So we encountered such a problem. Using the rules of 20 years ago as the yardstick of today's rapidly developing fashion industry. Is this appropriate? Although haute couture fashion places great emphasis on complicated fashion craftsmanship and respect for historical and cultural values, for now, allowing new materials, new crafts, and even new operating modes to enter advanced customization areas will not only cause serious negative impact on existing brands. Impact, but can promote the development of advanced customization industry. As a high-level customization industry, it should focus on whether it has far-reaching artistic value and realistic business value, rather than whether it violates the rules. But all things, if the rules of the past as a dogma, rest on their laurels and stand still, they will definitely be eliminated by the era. What's more, this fundamentally violates the spirit of endless changes in fashion. Today's reality is also the same, attracting more members, introducing competition mechanisms, allowing diversity to coexist, benefiting not only consumers but also the entire advanced customization industry itself. (Chi Qianqian)

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